Professional alpinist Roger Schäli was born on August 8 1978 in the Swiss mountain town of Sörenberg. Ever since he was young, his destiny was determined by the mountains, in particular the one at his doorstep, the Eiger. He started skiing and climbing as a child and got his first climbing harness when he was 14. Soon, he turned his passion into his profession.
To him, the Eiger’s North Face is “the face of all faces” He has climbed it 35 times over more than 15 different routes and in every possible season. Many first ascents and all of his experiences on this wall have served to make him strong for his other large and difficult alpine projects all over the world, such as the Arwa Spire in India.
Among professional alpinists, he is one of the world’s best all-around mountaineers and can now be counted among the world’s top-ranked alpinists. When climbing, reaching the summit isn’t the most important to him; rather, it is all about experiencing something “new” and figuring out the “how” in doing it.
Dedicated to traditional alpine standards, he wants to leave as little traces as possible, and he prefers to free climb without artificial aids.